(1100 words)

Recently, I wrote about a weapon light I purchased, an Olight Odin mini. I purchased it because I wanted the tail switch, but it comes with a pressure tape switch and mount.

It has now been moved to my weapon and will live there. It was lacking in a couple of features I wanted.

My Olight Baton 1SR is small. It does not have a tail switch. It does the job I needed it to do, but was not as useful as I needed it to be for defensive firearm use.

I decided to pick up a different Olight. A Warrior 3s. This light works for me on almost all fronts.

You can purchase a weapon mount to put it on your rifle and a pressure switch to go with it. Nice. The pressure switch it uses has a high and a turbo mode. The beam is focused rather tightly.

So why is this a go-to light for me now? Because it works for more of my needs.

According to my research, there are three common offhand light methods used with a pistol. All of them are designed around a grip with your thumb on the tail switch and the head of the light at your pinky.

The Harries Technique

The first hold is to put your offhand under your strong hand wrist to support while pointing the light downrange. This works very well. You can turn the light on or off with your thumb. You have some support for your strong side. This works for me. I’ve used it with my Winchester ’94 as well. The rifle does “jump” but it does work and I can cycle the rifle.

The downside is that your light is directly in front of you. Bad guys shooting at the light are likely to hit you.

The Neck Index Technique

The second method I found was the “neck rest”. You hold your light in your offhand and place it at your neck. This illuminates both your target and your firearm sights.

The downside is that you’ve now told the bad guys where to shoot while adding now support for your shooting hand.

The FBI Technique

With this method, you hold the light up and to your offside. The downsides of this method significant. You have to support your offhand in an unnatural position. It is tiring. You add no support to your shooting hand. You now have to be more aware of your surroundings above and to the side, so you don’t clunk your hand/arm into something.

The huge advantage is that you are no longer telling the bad guy where to shoot to hit you.

They all have their advantages.

Why the Warrior?

It has enough modes. It has the moon mode, which is 1 (or 2?) lumens. This is the run for weeks mode and is the most common mode I use. With the focus, I can actually move through the woods with the light in this mode after a short adjustment time. In a no moon, no streetlight situation.

The next two modes work for most other uses. The low mode is a good setting for working on things, looking in dark, small, holes, and other such needs. The medium is more than bright enough to light up most of the front yard.

The next mode is the high mode. This is perfectly acceptable for illuminating targets at pistol ranges or short rifle ranges (trash panda ranges). In terms of distance, I can use this to illuminate a trash panda at 50 yards clearly enough to put my iron sights on it.

The moon, low, and medium modes are accessed by my pinky pressing the side switch. The high mode can also be accessed via the side switch. Hold and it will cycle through low, medium, and high.

You can also access the high mode with a partial depression of the tail switch. A short press will turn the light on in this mode. Press and hold, and the light will turn on and stay on until you release the tail switch.

Turbo mode is accessed in one of two ways. Double-clicking the side button or full press of the tail switch.

This means I can switch from low light to blinding light quickly, as needed. I think of it almost like using a search radar to locate my target and then switching to a targeting radar for putting my sights on the target.


Get trained on your weapon system. The entire system. This includes your firearm(s), your sights, your backup sights, any weapon mounted lights, your hand held lights, your holster(s) and sling(s), your magazine pouches. All of it.

Then train with your weapon system. Now go get some more training.

What works for me might not work for you. What works for you might not work for me.

Now that you’ve done all of that. You’ve made sure you are capable of using your entire weapon system, go train on getting your weapon system ready to use.

Go lie down in your bed, under the covers, dressed for sleeping. Now have the timer go off. You have to access your weapon system and move as your plan requires and be able to use the weapon system.

Do you sleep in the nude? Are the dangly bits between your legs going to put you off if you have to start moving through your AO? If so, do you have something you can step into quickly? If you have the boobs, are you going to be able to move through your AO without having them contained?

How fast can you get your feet into something to protect them while not sounding like a herd of elephants?

That weapon system you have been training with, is that what you have at hand?

For me, there is a load bearing gear right there which is a fast on. My EDC light is right there. My rifle is right there. That is one of my weapon systems. I do train with that weapon system. I do train on going from in bed under the covers to ready to engage.

Lastly, that is not my preferred weapon system. It is the weapon system I have in the bedroom because it is the weapon system my wife can use. She isn’t going to go for the load bearing gear, but that rifle is her go-to weapon system.

Images are from How to use a tactical light with a firearm

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By awa

8 thoughts on “More Flashlight Stuff”
  1. Umm, the “fbi technique “ puts the light high to one side, just aim low right two rounds and low left two rounds….best light technique (imho) is stay put, let the bad guys come to you and light them up from cover… I have mixed feelings about lights on or off firearms. Don’t go “clearing the house” looking for trouble. Im going to play with some remote control lights in my house soon. Night vision is on the list too..

    1. Consider you are a fat old dude with a 1911, 8 rounds plus one in the pipe. Two left, two right, two center, and you have 3 rounds left. How fast can you put 6 rounds down range?

  2. Being able to get kitted up and into action quickly is important. But why not buy yourself a big more time to do so.
    Harden your dwelling to make it more difficult, noisy and time consuming for someone to enter. Doing so gives
    to you more time to prepare and may even dissuade an intruder from proceeding.

    1. Depending on location, hardening your dwelling might not be a worthwhile investment. It is still part of your overall posture.
      Regardless, if it takes 30 seconds for them to make entry or if it takes 5 minutes, you still need to train on getting your gear ready to use. If that is picking up your pistol from your nightstand and going or if it is putting on pants, load bearing vest/plate carrier with medical pack, mags, a ready holster, you do need to do that training.
      I use the “five-minute fire drill” as my example. Step outside, you have five minutes to create a fire good enough to warm yourself as if you had just come out of freezing water. When you can do it every time, now stick your hands in the snow for 2 minutes before you start your five-minute drill.

      1. Awa, or you could just design a sleep kit which requires only putting on the firepower as you rise from sleep. I love your discipline drill of creating demands on oneself to expose failure and failure rate, I’d love to try the two minutes in the snow, but I have no desire to travel back to New England during the winter months. But I do drill several days a week where it’s 95 degrees with 100 percent humidity causing sweat to roll into the eyes and palms to become covered with natural lubrication. That’s a game changer posing a real challenge. Also breathing under physical duress for anyone out of shape becomes very challenging.

  3. And now the spam starts… these grips you show point out to me how ridiculous modern pistol techniques are. You fundamentally change your grip when you drop your weak hand. I use the “obsolete” teacup because my strong hand does not change in the slightest when I drop my weak hand. It’s got a bonus feature of catching the mag if I fail to seat it…

  4. Some good videos on inrangetv from iirc their most recent night brutality discussing the advantages and disadvantages of various light and nvg setups, I reccomend checking that out too.

    9 hole also demonstrated the SAS maglight/mp5 combo was effective for aiming and shooting.

  5. Because:

    A – You know exactly how the light is being held and your guesses where to shoot will be correct and not just total misses anyways.
    B – The light for sure isn’t going to move the moment it detects you or starts getting shot at.
    C – All technique is most definitely retained at all moments of stress making so the light stays where it started.

    Your best bet is to have a light yourself to see what you are shooting at and where to shoot….

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