Hero gran, 50, is horrifically mauled as she wrestled neighbor’s pitbull with her bare hands to protect grandkids aged two and four after it lunged at her, dragged her from her doorway and tore chunks out of her leg, arm and face

A heroic grandmother was violently mauled as she wrestled her neighbor’s violent pitbull with her bare hands to protect her two young grandchildren, leaving her dripping with blood after the dog tore chunks out of her face, legs and arms.

Rhonda Stickney, from Motley, Minnesota, said the dangerous animal lunged at her daughter Tiffani, 27, grandson Jaxsyen, four, and Keyahra, two, as they stood in her doorway.

The giant dog went on to tear chunks out of her arm and face. Stickney claims she then grabbed hold of the dog’s jaw to stop it from biting her further until the owner came over to wrestle it off and drag it inside.

The mother-of-five believes she will have scars for life on her chin, eye, arm and leg as a result of the incident.

She added: ‘My grandchildren saw the whole thing. My daughter was screaming. It tore at my face and latched onto my arm.

‘My arm was punctured so when they went to rinse it to clean it out, it ran straight out the other side.

She remains on medication months later and has to go to hospital twice a week to get her leg repacked.

Following the horrific ordeal, Stickney contacted the police. The dog was not destroyed but the neighbor was forced to put a microchip in the animal and make it wear a muzzle whenever it goes outside.

She added: ‘The police came over and they were going to deem it as “possible dangerous” but I pushed it and showed them the photos of my injuries and they deemed it as a dangerous dog.

‘They made her microchip it and wear a muzzle when it goes outside. That’s not ok when there are kids around.’

Explain to me how a dog that jumps a fence, attacks children, and rips holes in a woman’s face, leg, and arm isn’t pit down?

I’ve had to have wounds packed before. It hurts like a bastard.

I try to be neighborly, but I’d shoot the fucking dog.

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By J. Kb

3 thoughts on “Time to yeet the neighbor’s dog”
  1. Idiots compensating for inadequate “things” ought to be put down along with the dog. I politely suggested one day this 5 foot zero idiot get his huge dog out of the store before something happens to him and the dog… it was reared up and trying to lunge at a lady and her miniture poodle…I don’t get involved in confrontation involving people I don’t know, but that day I would have shot the both of them… you can’t fix stupid but you can yeet it…

  2. If that were to happen in my town, if the dog wasn’t put down there would be a public outcry.

  3. So many ‘aggressive dog’ owners are foolish and willfully negligent when it comes to understanding the true nature of aggressive breeds. I have seen a few well-trained aggressive breeds surprise their owners with violent reactions when a rare situation occurs which the dog never experienced before.
    For this reason, over the past fifteen years, I’ve insisted on teaching these types of dogs, a ‘no-bite’ command as the first command in its training regimen. At four months of age, the dog should be set-up to fail, in order to understand rate of failure. This is accomplished by putting dog food near human food, at feeding time, to give the dog a false choice. Shepherding-away the dog using a hand to block-off the path to the human food, repeatedly until the dog gives up and chooses the dog food, sets the foundation for prohibiting the dog from using its mouth to engage other things.
    Next test object for the failure-rate test, is natural wood, such as a tree branch or small limb as opposed to a wooden furniture, when the dog enters the chew stage. In a few months, terminating a tug-of-war rope game with the no-bite command is implemented. First give the command just as the dog is about to quit anyway–as the mouth opens to release the rope give the command and then praise the dog. Then each time the exercise is occurring give the command sooner and eventually during the most aggressive part of the game, when it is least likely to want to comply.
    At six months, begin to play aggressively with the dog; ropes, sticks, or anything the dog prefers to get aggressive with and even get physically aggressive with hands on. Push the dog to get excited and aggressive. Then give the command. And finally, introduce an aggressive stranger to the dog, dressed in protective gear. Instigate the dog aggressively to determine the failure point if there is one at all, at this state of training.
    After the No-Bite command, the Bite command training is implemented. Again, the same type of process is used to achieve an attack ‘only’ when ordered to do so. I am currently in the ninth month of training a Kangal. He’s super aggressive, very strong and naturally hostile and territorial. However, when hearing “No-Bite” he drops anything in his mouth and sits—I did not teach the sitting part of his actions, he did that on his own. I have begun the “Bite” command training and so far, it’s working very well.
    Our neighbors dog got loose and came to my fenced-in yard the other day, and my boy began a charge toward the fence at thirty yards away, and upon hearing the command over the security system, he abandoned the charge and came to rest near the fence without the aggression, He did however watch the dog until it moved on to explore additional areas.
    Now, will I trust my boy when I’m not present? No way. Will I leave my boy unattended when he’s not confined? Not a chance. This Turkish Terror is a killing machine, trained to be an in-house in-vehicle protector. And when outside he’s confined within an eight-foot fence with an anti-breaching component at the top and bottom.
    Training an aggressive dog to not bite from three to four month on, and perfecting the bite command from nine to twelve months will stop even the most aggressive dog from engaging in violence, until commanded to do so.
    Sorry for the long post but, I thought some of you might find it useful given the frequency of this type of news story.

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